Haiti Journal - Thursday, March 26, 2009

Today was our last work day.  We have accomplished so much!  The whole basketball court and all 3 hoops are up.  We even had Pastor Manno shoot the first basket (which he made on his first attempt) (see photo above).  Three soccer camps today and all the donated clothing and soccer equipment was given away.  6th grade students were in testing today...I took a quick photo of a classroom (see above).  You'll note that the students were wearing different uniforms.  That's because students from many different schools came to Pillatre today for their tests.  This was a practice test to help them prepare for the final test in June that will decide if they get to pass 6th grade.

We also had soccer cleats to give away today.  It was very difficult to decide which children would get the shoes.  There were only 11 pairs.  Some larger sizes, some very small, and most in the middle.  With the first group of very small children, I walked up and down the rows and took a look at the shoes they already had.  There was a boy in beat up Nike sandals.  And, when I say beat up, what I mean is that the soles were completely worn through at the heels.  He was my first choice.  I thought he looked 5 or so years old, but the Haitian kiddos all look smaller than American children their age--so he was probably 6. Then, I saw a girl in purple sandals and her toes were hanging over the tops.  She was maybe 4. 

I quickly picked out one more child and while the main body of kids filed out the door, I took those three by the hands and stood to the side.  One of the Haitian teachers came over and tried to make the children go, but I gestured that they were to stay.  I led the first boy to a chair and had him sit.  I smiled and him and sized up his little feet.  I made a guess as to what pair would fit him--and was right!  They were perfect.  I brushed off the bottoms of his feet with my hands and undid the laces of the shoes so that his feet would slide in.  I tightened the laces and tied a bow.  He smiled and said something excitedly to the other two children.  I smiled at him, kissed my hands and patted his shoes.  "Bendzye bene ou!" I said (God bless you).  He said, "Mesi!" and hopped down from the chair.  I put his old shoes in a plastic bag and let him take them home.  Then, it was the little girl's turn.  She sat down and I took off her sandals, the velcro was barely holding.  I brushed off her feet and put on a pair of white socks.  Then, I picked out a pair of cleats for her.  They were too small--too hard to get on.  So, I tried another pair and they were just right.  She smiled as I put on both shoes and tightened and tied the laces.  I hugger her tight and said "Bendzye bene ou!" to her, too.  She thanked me and I took her picture (above) in her new shoes before she took her old shoes in a bag.  I followed the same procedure for the the third child, a little boy.  He was equally excited and grateful.  Tears streamed down my cheeks the whole time I fitted those three for shoes.  I wasn't crying--I was elated.  And yet, I couldn't stop the tears amid my smile.  It was a very humbling experience.  I longed to be able to show the people who made those donations just how happy they had made these adorable little kids.  

When it was time for the middle-graders' camp at 10:30, I decided to play, too.  I played with the boys first and I think they were impressed.  I schooled them all.  I kicked corner kicks to a group of them and they took shots on goal.  Several of them took turns being goalie.  It was so fun!  I had been hesitant to join in the play until today because I didn't want to turn an ankle or something and be out of commission for the week.  (It wouldn't have been hard to do, given the rocks and divots in the field.)  But today was the last day, so I was in.  I played a game or two with the girls, too, which was fun.  They weren't afraid to get physical with me!  I got elbowed, shoved, and several girls tried to trip me.  I pushed and elbowed right back.  It was all in fun. They liked to see me score and cheered for me.  We played for over an hour!  

When everyone was tired, they began to straggle off the field.  There was a toddler who stood just off the field where his older sister was playing and suddenly, the ball came at him and a crowd of girls trampled him.  They went off down the field, leaving him in tears and screaming. I walked over and scooped him up, patting his back and wiping his tears.  I rocked with him and soothed him until he stopped crying.  Then, I carried him over to a shady spot under a tree and sat down with him.  Soon, a few other children gathered, too, including a girl who was the same size and build as my daughter.  They were all so sweet.  I took their picture and let them see themselves on the display.  They are amazed by cameras because they rarely see themselves in photos. Then, they began inspecting and grooming me.  One girl picked the dirt from under my fingernails with her own dirty fingers and a boy scratched the streaks of mud that had dried on my legs.  They are so fascinated by my sunburned, mosquito bitten skin.  They touch each red, swollen bite mark (there are so many!).  They also like my blonde hair and green eyes.  They run their little fingers through my hair and take my face in their hands to get a close look.  One little girl was worried about the sunburn on the back of my neck, and kept trying to pull my shirt collar up over it to shield my skin.  

I gave away barrettes that I brought from home today, too.  Oh, and they LOVE to blow my whistle!  I gave one of my whistles to a Haitian woman who had helped us a lot with the soccer camps and another to Willem, a teacher who also helped.

The older boys showed up again today for another game.  Omar is my friend.  They all show me a lot of respect and call me "Coach."  Today, during the second half of their game, there was a hand ball.  Suddenly, all the players were yelling--there was a heated debate about something...  And they turned to me and motioned insistently for me to come onto the field.  I thought it was a pretty obvious foul, so at first I told them to work it out.  But, they were insistent.  Two of them came over and pulled me onto the field.  My heart was pounding so hard!  I wasn't afraid, exactly, but definitely intimidated.  I didn't want to get stuck in the middle of a crowd of 20 angry Haitian men!  They had been playing intensely and aggressively, so they were really worked up.  There was even a large crowd that had gathered to watch!  

So, there I was in the middle of the field, trying to figure out what these young men were shouting about.  After a few minutes, I realized that they were arguing over whether the hand ball took place INside or OUTside of the penalty box (which wasn't marked).  They wanted ME to make a call.  Since the field was so small, I decided it was outside the penalty box and said so.  I awarded a penalty kick and the argument was over.  They lined up the kick as I left the field, my heart still pounding.  The kick did NOT result in a goal...whew.  A few people later commented that they had showed a great deal of respect for me in that situation--and had held me in high esteem.  Imagine that!  

Haiti Journal - Wednesday, March 25, 2009

6:42 am   

Rain.  All night.  Barking.  All night.  In fact, I'm fairly certain that at least one dog was devoured by the others last night.  I woke up with a start last night to the gnarly sounds of a vicious dog fight outside my window.  Alyssa was wide awake with me!  We both just stared into the darkness until it was over.  Then, we awoke again later to sweeping on the street outside at 4:30 am.  I am tired.

6:38 pm

I love singing Bible songs with the first campers of the day.  I do my best to sing the words in Creole, and the little ones correct me.  I love to sit near them and hold dance with them.  I love to hear their collective, tiny voices echoing off of the church walls.  They come to camp hungry.   Hungry for lots of things, but hungry for food.  It it so satisfying to feed them...to watch them eat...and to see them perk up with energy soon after.

The second soccer camp of the day went so much better today!  The middle grades learned their lesson, I think.  Getting to play today was a good motivator for good behavior.  They stayed off the fields until 10:30 am when it was their turn.  This allowed us to really focus our attention on the littlest kids.  The toddlers stayed in the church for songs and games, so for the first camp, we really only had preschoolers through 1st grade.  It was perfect.  They did passing games and even got to practice taking shots on goal.  Then, when it was time for the second camp, the children stayed organized and listened.  We skipped any type of drills for the second group and went straight to setting up teams and games on two fields.  One field for the boys and the other for the girls.  The girls were so excited to have their own field, their own teams, their own ball.  I stood between the two fields and tried to referee both simultaneously.  The boys seem to disregard any out-of-bounds markers, and so their play often spills over onto the girls' field...until I chase them off (unless the girls on the field get to them first). 

There are many more boys than girls.  Many girls don't want to play soccer.  They stay on the sidelines or sit under trees and play clapping games.  Still, both of the fields are crowded.  

I did not get to go on a walk into Pillatre with Parice today.  Instead, I served as referee for a soccer game for the high school/university boys.  They played on the larger field - 9 v 9.  They were mostly the same young men who played Monday afternoon.  My friend, Omar, from Monday, was back.  He said that they all had late classes yesterday and that was why they weren't around.  No late classes today, though, and they were anxious to get on the field.  They played shirts & skins today.  They are very slender, and yet, very muscular.   

Omar speaks English very well.  Today, I told him to tell the teams that the winners would receive soccer jerseys (that were donated by American.  This inspired more intense and aggressive play than Monday's game.  The trickiest part was that the concrete for the basketball court was still being poured...about 10 feet behind one of the goals.  I am certain that the players understood what I was saying when I explained that the ball could NOT be kicked into the drying concrete.  But, I suppose it was inevitable.  The ball sailed into or skimmed across the soon-to-be court 3 times.  Yet, the men working on the court let us have the ball back each time - miraculously. 

They played two 30 minute halves again today, and when the time ran out, they were tied 7 - 7. I put another 5 minutes on the clock and finally, the skins team won.  We took a team photo, but not before there was a crazy MOB of young men grabbing for their prize jerseys!  I came out of the mob unscathed, and recounted the best plays of the game with Omar and a few others. (Apparently, when they go to university, many students learn English, because several of the young men from this 3rd camp of the day spoke it very well.)

I am still on a high from that game.  It was exhilarating.  It was awesome to watch.  My first Haitian football game!  I am exhausted.

Somewhere during the day we also sorted through the bags and bags of donated clothing, dividing them into piles for women, men, boys, and girls.  I was able to see the medical clinic close up.  The doctors and nurses there take any and all patients and deal with all kinds of illnesses and issues.  There are surgeons who make visits to the clinic, too.  Oh, and I learned that they do not use anesthesia for their surgeries.  Ever.  It's just too hard to obtain and too risky to administer.  Think for a minute about the last time you...had a tooth pulled?  Had a lump in a breast removed?  Had your tonsils taken out?  Had an appendix removed?  Ok, I'll stop.  You get the point.  Ouch.  Haitians are tough.  We Americans are wimpy.

God is opening my eyes.  It's just what I prayed for.  I am here reaching, touching these forgotten people.  I see their desperation and brokenness.  Their hunger and beauty.  Their kindness and humor.  Their hope and joy.  I love them.  I see them.  I hear them.  This whole world I never knew.  They matter.  God sees their suffering and hears their cries of agony and their songs of praise.  And, He sent me to be a love letter to them.  

Haiti - Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Three more days of Haiti.  Then, I will be heading home to my family.  I can't wait to see them.  I woke up this morning missing them.  I realized today that this is the longest amount of time I've gone without talking to Mark in the nearly 10 years we've been married.  I wonder how he is and if he misses me...

It rained all night again, but we woke up to clouds.  The soccer field was a swamp and it was almost comedic to see the kids slipping and sliding around, splashing in the puddles.  They/we were so dirty!  

It was a rough day with the kids today.  The problem was that the middle-grade kids were not in testing or class this morning when the littlest ones were having their soccer camp at 8:30 am.  So, while we tried to get the little ones playing, the middle ones were stealing the balls and running off.  We tried to chase them down and keep them off the field, but it was futile.  We were all so frustrated and disappointed for the little ones.  

What made it all worse was that the children were very irritating.  "Give me my shoes."  "Give me a dolla."  "I am hungry."  "Give me my cap."  Grrr....They were relentless.  I was reading last night about Jesus spending time with even the dirtiest, most diseased sinners.  If he could do that, surely I can be patient with these children.

We talked to Prisca and she decided to cancel the 10:30 camp for the middle grade students.  She called them all into the church--all 300 or so--and yelled at them.  I couldn't understand all that she was saying, but I'm pretty sure she said that she was very disappointed in their behavior because it ruined the camp for the younger children and because it was disrespectful to us.  She told them not to come tomorrow until 10:30 or, if they came earlier, to stay off the field.  If they disobey again tomorrow, the camp will be cancelled again.  But, if they behave better, they can play.  After she was done, she came over and told us, "I told them you all were REALLY mad!"  That wasn't quite what we were trying to convey.  So, Kim asked if she could say something to the group.  Prisca translated as Kim told the children that we would pray for them to be forgiven for their bad choices and for them to do better the next day.

They all filed out of the church somberly.  I was feeling the same way.  Their punishment was punishment for me, too.  I felt bad for the ones who did behave well.  

So, after lunch, I went "calling."  We walked with our interpreter, Parice, in the streets of Pillatre.  He took us into people's houses and I finally got to see firsthand the extreme poverty of the majority of people of Haiti.  Manno's house is very different from the houses I saw today.  His house is big and modern and in a nice neighborhood.  (He said his neighbors are doctors, engineers and drug dealers.)  

The first house was a one-room box with walls of concrete bricks.  There was a big opening in the brick for a door and other smaller opening for a window.  There were strips of cloth hung over the door and window as curtains.  There was no bathroom, no kitchen.  Just a small bed and a couple of chairs and shelves.  10 people lived there, including a 2 week old baby.

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Side note: I just heard Talia call out, "Maman!" and it made my heart ache to hear someone calling that name for me.

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There are always dogs at every house.  It's their security system.  The dogs are locked up all day, just like Manno's dogs.  Then, they're let out to be guard dogs at night.  The next house we stopped at was also full of people.  The elderly man who greeted us explained that one house was his first house with his wife.  Then, as their children grew and married and grandchildren were born, they built houses up around that first house.  They were clustered together, but not quite touching.  A young girl was sitting outside washing dishes.  She was beautiful. (Don't you think?  See her photo above.) 

They were a very welcoming, very happy family.  His wife hugged me and touched my face, saying something sweet in Creole.  She made me think instantly of my grandma at home.  Several grandchildren loitered around, examining us and playing, so I photographed grandma with all of them.  One of the women had a 2 month old baby boy.  Megan held him and I took pictures.  The grandfather asked us to pray with the family before we left, so we did with help from Parice.  We prayed for the baby and for the family and their homes.  

We then went on to meet a witch doctor.  While some folks in Haiti are Christian, most of them practice voodoo.  The witch doctor showed us candles he was making for a voodoo ceremony.  People come to him with problems or tragic situations to be cleansed.  At the end of the ceremony, the witch doctor eats the remainder of the candle.  Yes, you read that correctly.  He eats the candle.  Mmmmm...!

Next, we met a woman who thought we were rich and wanted money to buy a new dress.  Then, we saw a man who was making a big round flatbread over an open fire.  He coated it with coconut and sugar and then flipped the whole thing over like a pancake.  I wanted to taste it, but we have been advised not to eat food on the street.  I decided not to take any chances.  

Now, the day is almost over.  I'm praying the next few days are not as long as this one.  I need some rest.

Haiti - Monday, March 23, 2009

Today was the first day of the soccer camp in Pillatre.  Now I know why my fellow missionaries were laughing at me when I described my ideas about soccer drills and games. (I mentioned that maybe a white board with Xs and Os would help them understand since I couldn't explain in Creole.)  

Here's what the layout for the day looked like:

7 am breakfast

7:30  load up on the tap-tap

8 am arrive at Pillatre, set up soccer goals, tools, T-shirts and food

9 am Group 1 Soccer Camp - preschool through 1st grade

10:30 dismiss Group 1

11 am Group 2 Soccer Camp - 2nd-6th grades

12:30  dismiss Group 2

12:40  lunch

2:30  Group 3 Soccer Camp - 7th-12th grades (plus a few even older students)

4:30 load up on the tap-tap

5 pm arrive back at Cap Haitian for clean up and dinner

7 pm  devotions, team meeting

9 pm collapse exhausted after the dogs are released for the night

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When we got to Pillatre around 8 am this morning, a huge swarm of children came running out of buildings to greet us.  They were shouting and waving--they were so excited!  They had the biggest smiles...I took a photo of the crowd from the tap-tap (see above).  It was probably the closest feeling I've had to what a celebrity must feel like.  As teachers corralled the children back into their classrooms, we got out of the truck and began setting up.  I examined the soccer field.  

My assessment?  Not good.  There was a huge dirt pile at one end, and big puddles at the other.  There were no out-of-bounds lines drawn.  There were huge rocks scattered all over the field, and finally, the 6 inch tall weeds needed to be mowed down.  "You get what you get and you don't get upset" is what I always tell my kids.  So, I said that to myself and moved on.  We set up the goals and nets.  We used some string and stakes to mark off one large field that we would split into two halves to have two games going at once.  Then, we used white spray paint to mark the lines.  There were small clusters of boys following me around the field.  They thought I was crazy, picking up stones and pitching them off the field.  But, some of them joined in and helped.  

The first group of kids assembled in the new church (Quick side story - there is a church currently in use in Pillatre, but the congregation has grown so much that a larger church is being built.  It's MUCH bigger.  So far, just the shell of the building is there.  Everything inside still needs to be finished.  Manno anticipates that it will be next January before the new church will open.).  We were expecting 200 children in that first group, but there were nearly 400.  Wow!  I heard them singing songs and after a little while, some of them--maybe 60--emerged onto the field in their new camp T-shirts.   The littlest ones were very little.  I was expecting preschoolers, but not toddlers.  Apparently, some younger siblings had tagged along. 

I had no idea how to get soccer drills going with kids ranging from age 1 to 7.  We set up large circles of kids, and had them pass soccer balls back and forth as best as we could.  We realized then that we needed to separate the very little children the next day at camp.  But today, we muddled through chaos until 10:30 when we dismissed them.  At 11 am, Group 2 assembled in the church.  They got their T-shirts, food, and sang songs.  And, did I mention that at the start of each camp, someone from our group gave a brief testimony with the aid of a translator? It was so awesome to hear their child voices singing, the sound ricocheting off of the walls and carrying out the windows...I didn't recognize many of the songs they sang, but I did hear the Creole version of "Deep and Wide" and "Father Abraham."  

The soccer set up for Group 2 was much more organized.  We set up two fields and had the boys play a game on one and the girls on the other.  It took a while for this concept to catch on. Fortunately, there was a Haitian woman who worked with me to help get the children divided into teams.  One team tied their T-shirts around their waists and the other team kept their shirts on.  And, they played in their school uniforms!  Many of the kids wore sandals to school, but sandals don't work well for soccer.  So, they just played barefoot--ouch. Well, ouch for me, but they must be used to it.  

The girls were shocked by the fact that they had their own field and their own ball.  Their shock quickly gave way to excitement.  I have thought a lot about why the girls seemed so surprised.  I don't think they get to play very often.  I don't think the boys get to play very often either, but I think the girls play even less.  So, when you hardly ever have a place to play soccer, much less a ball, competition gets pretty fierce.  I'm guessing that the boys don't often let the girls play... Anyway, they had a ball (pun intended).

Group 2 dismissed at about 12:30.  A few ladies from  the house in Cap Haitian arrived with sack lunches for us.  I was tired, but on a high from the first two camps.  Around 2 pm, a group of about 20 high school boys showed up for the last soccer camp of the day.  I could tell they were serious.  A few of them even had cleats.  They were ready to play.  They gathered in the church and with the help of a translator, I introduced myself and prayed with them, and we headed out to the field.  I decided to play the role of referee for their game, keeping time on my watch and calling fouls as needed.  They called most of their own fouls and worked out the penalties themselves.  They played shirts vs. skins and they were good.  Very fast.  It was fun just to watch.  By the end of the game, they were referring to me as "coach."  See above for a photo of the winning team.

It was so exciting to see all the children today.  They didn't hold their distance like most of the adult Haitians I've met so far.  They got up close.  They talked to me (and they didn't care about our language barrier), touched me, held my hands, hugged me, and taught me clapping games like I used to do at recess in 6th grade.  As I expected, they were fascinated by my blonde hair and fair skin and light eyes.  They touched all of my freckles on my arms...ran their hands through my ponytail...and examined my sunburned shoulders.  

The other thing I experienced that I hadn't expected was that the children wanted me to give them everything.  "Give me my shoes," they'd say.  Of course, they really meant to say, "give me your shoes." Or, "Give me my cap."  "Give me my watch."  They'd ask over and over again.  I learned quickly to just say no.  I had so much to give!  But, not my watch, shoes, or hat.  They also wanted me to take their picture.  "Photograph," they'd say, and then they'd strike a pose.  I'd take their photo and then, just like American kids, they'd want to see themselves on the review screen.

It rained on us yet again during our ride back to Cap Haitian in the tap-tap.  We cleaned up and had a dinner of cooked cabbage and mushroom casserole and creamed corn, with pudding for dessert.  What?  That doesn't sound appealing?  Well, let me just say that when you're tired and hungry, you eat.  We had devotions and our team meeting and a big laugh when Deb said, "So, Sarah, now you understand why we thought your Xs and Os were so funny?"  I am exhausted and yet already excited about another day of camp tomorrow.  I love soccer.  I am so thankful for this opportunity to connect with these Haitian children through our shared love of this sport.  Even if they can't understand what I'm saying, they understand that I'm passionate about soccer.  And, they understand that I'm here because I love them and care about them.

Haiti - Sunday, March 21, 2009

Only once last night did I wake up to the barking dogs.  Otherwise, I slept until I heard women working outside my window around 6 am.  Most people here in Haiti get going early in the morning.  I'm guessing it's mainly because they have to walk to get where they're going--they don't hop on a train or in their car.  Well, some people here do have cars, but given the state of the roadways, it's not much quicker than walking.  

I am so proud of myself for being able to sleep well last night.  I'm surprised, really.  At home, I cannot sleep with windows open.  But here, the windows, doors...everything is wide open.  It rained all night, but somehow the sound was soothing to me.

It rained hard all through breakfast: toast & jelly, eggs with bacon mixed in, and fresh bananas and pineapple.  They are the tastiest bananas and pineapples I have ever had.  Mmmmm. 

We all got ready and dressed.  We went to church in Pillatre, which is a small town near Cap Haitian where Manno is the pastor.  The church campus also has a school and it's where we'll be doing the soccer camp this week.  Manno and Prisca, our hosts, have two vehicles and the tap-tap.  Since it was raining so hard, we had to get to Pillatre in the two vehicles.  We asked Prisca, "How many can fit in your Jeep?"  "Hmmm," she responded, "American style or Haitian style?" We all laughed and assured her that we were up for riding Haitian style.  Haitian style is people crammed in on top of one another--maybe even a few on top or hanging off the sides.  For real!  We saw a truck just today where a guy was driving--DRIVING--with half of his body hanging out the window.  A car that fits 6 people in America fits 12 in Haiti...maybe 15 if they're smaller-sized people.  

So, we packed 10 people into the Jeep.  We began to pile in and Manno said I should sit up front in the middle ("the tiny one" he called me - I love him for that). "Wait," he said as I began to climb in.  He ran back into the house and came back with two pillows.  That's when I knew it was going to be a rough ride.  I have never seen potholes like I saw today.  They weren't even potholes.  They were craters.  I was so thankful for those two pillows.  I don't think we ever got over 30 mph.  And, all the craters were filled with water and mud, thanks to the last 12 hours of rain.  

We saw some strange sights on the road to Pillatre.  People walking, people on motorbikes, people in trucks.  Some trucks stuck.  There are animals that root through the garbage piles on the sides of the roads--pigs, goats, cows.  I think I saw a pony and a donkey, too.  And there are rusting-out vehicles scattered here and their on the shoulder of the road.  I imagine they are vehicles that got stuck or broke down right there in that spot and were simply abandoned. Many men walking on the road carry machetes.  I wonder why...

The drive to Pillatre took about 35 minutes.  When we got to church, we went straight in.  I don't know what time church usually starts, but today it started when Pastor Manno arrived.  I have been told that on a typical Sunday, there are hundreds of people who worship here.  But, with all the rain, many people can't make the trip.  There were about 50 people there, plus the 15 on my team.  There was singing, preaching, more singing, more preaching, and looooooong prayers.  The music was beautiful, even though I didn't understand the words.  I met a few children who let me take their pictures.  The whole congregation was dressed up in their best clothes, despite the fact that they had to walk a long way on muddy roads.  Some of them walked all that way barefoot--carrying their shoes, so that they were clean when they put them on at church. The little girls have their hair all done, with lots of bows.  Danielle would have loved to see it.

I watched out the windows during the service as the rain stopped and the sky began to clear. By the time we left church to head back to Cap Haitian, the sun was out.  I noticed as we left that a hearse was parked near the church.  Manno said that there was a funeral this afternoon.  I wonder who has died, but have decided not to ask.  

After church, we hung out back at the house in Cap and had a simple lunch.  Haitians don't do any work on Sundays, including cooking.  Later in the day, we went for a walk on the main road to the "car wash." I have never felt so vulnerable and uncomfortable in my life.  We were 13 white people on parade (yes, 13 - Arizona was napping and Kevin?  Well, they think he's Haitian.  People in the airport gave him very strange looks when they realized he didn't speak Creole).  It occurred to me that I was feeling, perhaps, what black people in the American South may have felt a few decades ago... I could see some people carrying machetes, and I didn't know how many others may have had concealed weapons.  Some people we encountered were friendly, some ignored us, and others were pretty open about the fact that they didn't like us.  There's a lot you can understand through facial expressions, tone of voice, and body language. I was glad we were there in daylight, and not in the dark of night.

The "car wash" is a broad stretch of a stream in Cap Haitian, where there is enough shore for people to drive their cars up, so that the wheels are immersed, and wash their cars off.  It's the same stream where you can also see animals drinking (and I would assume, defecating), people bathing, and others collecting water to take home for cooking and drinking.  Oh, and the stream is also used as a garbage dump.  Garbage, garbage, garbage.  It's everywhere.  The smell is overpowering.  It's the smell of decay.  I began to wonder if improvements could be made simply by educating people about the basics of sanitation and waste disposal, but I think there are many things I don't know or understand about the complexities of life and politics in Haiti. 

On the way back to the house, I observed a second common form of security around here (the first being guard dogs).  Broken glass bottles cemented on top of the walls around the property, sharp ends up.  Clever.  Nice reuse of material!  It's even kind of colorful and pretty...  

I miss my family tonight.  I long to hold and love on my children and sing them a song at bedtime.  I have felt very strange today about having some "down time." Almost guilty, I think. So much time to myself today.  Usually, at home, I have cooking, cleaning, laundry or childcare to do.  There's always SOMETHING that needs to be done! But here, after dinner is prepared for me, I eat and put my dishes in the kitchen and then....DO WHATEVER I WANT.  

I don't know what to do with myself.  I stood on the balcony and listened for a while to some children nearby who were singing, their voices carrying on the breeze.  So sweet.  Birds calls... A little lizard scampered across some tiles on the roof.  I think I surprised a neighbor girl when she realized I was watching her.  She began to dash inside her house and fell down.  I'm guessing it's not everyday that she sees a strange white lady watching her from up here.  She must have gone inside and told her mother she saw me, because her mother came out to see me for herself.  I smiled and waved and called, "Bonswa!"  And she smiled and waved back.  My first successful exchange in Creole!

Baby B

I interrupt my Haiti journal to bring you Baby B.  I just can't wait to share a few of these photos with you.  This little boy is so precious and his arrival is a long-awaited promise from the Lord. Showers of blessings on you, sweet one!

Haiti - Saturday Conclusion

I am so tired tonight that I think I'll be able to sleep ok, despite the dogs outside and the rain falling.  There are three women here in my room.  Liz, Alyssa, and me.  Alyssa and I are sharing the double bed and Liz is sleeping on a mattress on the floor.  I think we have the best room in the house.  We have our own balcony (which is great for hanging up wet clothes, except that they never seem to completely dry...mainly because it keeps raining) AND we have our own bathroom. The bathroom looks like a pretty typical bathroom.  There are a few differences in how you use it here, though.  There is TP in the bathroom, but it can't go in the stool.  No flushing TP.  Use it, and then throw it in the trash.  Oh, and use it sparingly because the roll you brought from home has to last all week.  It's a surprisingly hard habit to break.  

I also learned how to take a "Navy style" shower.  They do a lot of things here to conserve water, and this type of shower is one of them.  You turn on the shower and get yourself wet--oh, and btw, the water is cold.  Turn off the water and then soap up, wash hair and shave.  Then, turn the water on again and rinse off.  The water from the tap is not filtered, either, so you have to be careful not to get it in your mouth.  

Finally, you must remember to use your bottle of water to brush your teeth and rinse your toothbrush.  

As I sit here in bed with my ipod on, I'm getting pretty sleepy.  Back at home, my two girls have been fast asleep for hours... I hope.  I wonder what Mark is doing.  I realized today that this trip will be the longest time that I will have not spoken to Mark in 10+ years.  While there have been other times that we've been apart, we've always had email or cell phones to talk on.  This time is different.  My cell says there's no service.  I've turned it off and put it downstairs in Manno's office, which is locked.  No computer here, either.  Completely out of touch for the next 6 days.  It's going to go by fast...right?  G'night!

Haiti - Saturday Continued

Ok, so...Where was I?  Oh, yeah.  On my first ride in the tap-tap....

We pulled away from the puny airport and onto the packed streets of Cap Haitian.  There are no lanes in Haitian roads.  There's not much pavement, for that matter.  Mostly dirt, which is mud when it rains.  Lots of honking and the biggest potholes I've ever seen.  I will never complain about American potholes again.  Little boys and girls on the street waved and smiled.  A van ahead of us was transporting fowl - ducks, hens, roosters and doves.  They were tied upside down on the top of the van.  At first, I thought the animals were dead, but I soon realized they were alive.  Very alive--flapping, squaking and looking around.  For a moment, I questioned the humane-ness of the situation, but decided in the end that it was ok.  They were animals, not people.  They were about to be dinner for some hungry Haitian family.  After all, at that moment, I was feeling rather like a farm dog, standing in the back of a truck.  Many Haitians don't have ready access to a refrigerator for food storage, so they keep the birds live until it's time to cook and eat.  I know I risk offending my dog-loving friends here, but I'll say it anyway.  I think Americans (in general) spend way too much money on pets.  Do we really need doggie daycare, gourmet doggie treats and designer doggie clothes for our pets when people in Haiti and other places in the world (even the USA) don't have homes, clothes or food?  I guess maybe that's an issue to blog about some other time...

After 10 minutes or so of battling traffic and dodging potholes, it began to rain.  Haitians standing in store doorways laughed at us - drenched and on display.  We arrived at Manno & Prisca's home thoroughly soaked.  Their home is set off an alley that connects to a main road.  They live in a very nice part of town.  Their house has a lovely courtyard and several rooms with balconies.  The windows have glass, but it's slotted and never closes completely, so there's always a breeze and sounds of Haiti floating through.  Gauzy drapes, tiled floors, tall ceilings.  Tropical and inviting...

We quickly changed into dry clothes and ate lunch that was prepared by 5 or so Haitian women in the kitchen.  Fruit salad, spaghetti with chicken and carrots.  There is always water and tea to drink.  The women wait while we eat and then we take our dishes in and say, "Merci!"  I am not used to being waited on and it makes me feel... weird.  The children who belong to these women stay here, too.  One boy and two girls.  One girl is 8 and the other is 2 or 3 and makes me think of Elli.  The boy is 10 or 12, I think.  The 8 year old girl spoke to me today and told me her name is Amelie--or at least, that's what I heard...

We then had time to unpack some of our suitcases and put all of our wet stuff up to dry out.  Some took naps, some watched TV.  Yes!  TV.  I was so surprised.  They have satellite.  Later, we had dinner - BBQ sandwiches.  I had time to explore after the rain stopped and took some photos.  I also met Fluffy the dog.  He is Manno & Prisca's pet, I guess.  He is kind of stinky and mangy, but loves a good back scratch.  He is not allowed in the house, but has free reign of the grounds all day.  I soon found out that while Fluffy is king during the day, he cowers during the night.  Here's what happens here starting at dusk...

First, all power in Haiti (at least in Cap Haitian) is turned off about the time the sun sets.  At that time, Manno's house runs off of a closet full of car batteries.  Around 9 pm, someone releases the hounds that are kept in cages all day - there are 4 of them.  They're guard dogs, not the kind of dogs you want to cozy up to.  The whine and cry in anticipation of being let out, and then bark wildly as they get their first taste of freedom.  They bark and bark as they hunt down Fluffy, and then they get revenge for his taunting them all day.  When he finally yelps "uncle" and slinks off to a hiding spot, they run around the grounds and bark some more.  After a while, they quiet down a little.  When the batteries begin to run down, the generator kicks on - which is usually around 3 am.  The hum of the generator drowns out the dog noises and if you're still awake then, you might finally be able to drift off.

...to be continued.  (Yes, there's more.  I had a lot to absorb on my first full day.)